Sorry for the delayed reply. No, too warm won’t cause warping. However, the hold side of your hot end will at best be ambient temperature. If it gets too warm you can clog your nozzle.
My view is “if the chamber doesn’t need to be hotter why make it hotter?”.
If you were printing ASA/ABS you want your chamber to go basically as hot as you can get it though - especially if you’re printing something big.
This is the deepest I’ve ever seen Jerboa render comments.
Old.reddit.com has slowly been getting worse. Lots of collapsed comment trees, a similar posts section after the first two comments in a busy comments section, etc.
Lifting on the corners, especially if this was a bed sized print, was probably due to warping. It stinks that it took out your bed, but warping probably wasn’t the cause there.
My main printer these days is enclosed. When I print PETG on it I’ll pop the lid open because PETG doesn’t like to be too warm.
That looks like somewhat similar to an ultrabase bed. I have had one of those on my i3 clone for years and years. I’ve also printed a reasonable amount of PETG on it. Was the print and/or bed warm when you tried to pull it off? Prints detach much better when cool.
The ender 5 isn’t a bed slinger so it should be relatively compact for its print volume. You can certainly get a smaller printer. You can do this by getting a more compact printer and/or sacrificing build volume. If you want compact you’re probably going to want a coreXY
For example:
Hobby woodworker here. Shellac is great for an initial seal, but isn’t waterproof. I suggest using a two part epoxy instead. You don’t need a very thick coat, so you could even use a crack filler and/or self leveling variety.
Not on a steam deck, but I did buy another PC based handheld.
As a Dad with a somewhat demanding job, I don’t get a lot of time on my gaming PC anymore. Having something that’s not squirreled away in a corner that turns on/off quickly has made it a lot easier game somewhat more casually.
I’m generally happy with the performance of my handled, but there is some tension between most of the steam games I’m trying to play on it and the realities of a hand held.
For example, many games on steam are designed for larger screens. Sure, they’ll render fine on a small screen, but things that were very obvious on a large screen can become harder to spot because the game designers could assume more real estate.
I also find myself gravitating toward games that were either built for a console or PC games that don’t require a lot of keyboard actions. For example, I’m presently playing through the original Borderlands after having last played it on PC quite a while ago. I don’t think I would attempt StarCraft II on my handheld though.
I was able to find a post of this image daring back to 2023.
Doesn’t mean it’s not AI, just means it’s a lot less likely.
Oh, I wasn’t the person who asked about the lens. I was only chiming in to agree on the weight factor.
And yes, agree on actually using the hood for exactly the reason you said. It’s nice to be able to put the good directly against a something like a chain link fence without having to worry about the front element.
Agree on both the weight and ISO fronts. It looks like the 200-800 is 2,050 grams. I use a Tamron 150-500, which weighs in at 1,870 or so grams.
I am vaguely fit in the ‘I worked out nearly 20 years ago and am now a Dad’ kind of way. I can hand hold the lens, and have for the occasional half inning of youth baseball, but I greatly prefer sitting on the ground and using a knee as a makeshift monopod. My personal weight threshold for hand holding seems to be around a kilogram. It’s too bad Sony’s 70-200 2.8 ii plus 2x teleconverter doesn’t hold up to the 150-500 in terms of image quality.
Youth sports tend not to be well shaded, but I still see 1,000+ ISO pretty frequently.
Do get a hood
Does it not come with one?
When Sony launched the e-mount a lot of their top tier glass was co-branded with Sony and Zeiss logos. Example. They’ve been making optics since the 1840s
https://dulytek.com/collections/dulytek-rosin-presses
A rosin press is a machine that uses a pair of heated plates to press with enough pressure any cannabis material, such as buds, keif, or hash, which causes the cannabinoids and terpenes to seep out in an oily form called rosin. Rosin gained popularity with its solventless yet easy extraction process.
Warping! Others have hit on a lot of this, so I’ll try to be brief.
Dish soap is better than alcohol, especially if you’re cleaning the bed in a sink with lots of water to rinse all the accumulated oils off.
There’s also all the mess of slicer and printer settings. It would be interesting to give someone a collection of parts with different nozzle sizes, extrusion widths, pressure advance settings, temp settings, print speeds/accelerations, etc
Interesting project! I will have to give it a look.
sourcing the materials can be a bit of a challenge
Any more details here? I’m guessing the necessary material for electrolytic and what not? Do you know about the boring adjacent stuff like measuring (eg how accurate do the measurements need to be, how precise, etc), disposal, etc?
Not sure, but I would suspect that AI output would likely be very similar to procedural generation output in that it will need some massaging before it can be used as a final asset.
Procedural generation of content in games is by no means a new thing. Even if the end state isn’t completely procedurally generated, odds are a version of the asset was initially and a human touched it up as necessary. When you’re talking about large asset sets (open world and/or large maps, tons of textures, lots of weapons, etc) odds are they weren’t all 100% hand made. Could you imagine making the topology map and placing things like trees in something like RDR2?
That’s not to say all this automation is necessary a good thing. It almost feels like we’re slowly chugging through a second industrial revolution, but this time for white collar workers. I know that I tell myself that I would rather spend my time solving problems vs doing “menial” work and have written a ton of automation to remove menial work from my job. I do wonder if problem solving will become at least somewhat menial in the future.
3 hours in and no one’s brought up VoronDesign? You can’t buy their priners or parts directly, you either have to self source or buy some variant or “BOM in a box” from a third party. I’ve had mine for two (three?) years and although the build was long it was very well documented, via a 240+ page lego-like build manual. It’s a great printer and community.