• 2 Posts
  • 49 Comments
Joined 3 years ago
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Cake day: June 16th, 2023

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  • I had mixed experiences with both. On one hand, Amazon replaced my 3DS no questions asked when a shoulder button failed (Nintendo pretended the serial didn’t exist…), on the other hand my preorder of the Bayonetta Amiibo (Amazon for the EU) well… they cancelled it like six months after it got released and the support person had no idea what was going on. On AliExpress I ordered a drone that got delivered “to the wrong address” and the seller very clearly tried to scam me with helpful instructions on how to mark it as received to progress with the refund. But then I also got the logic board for my 3d printer from the manufacturer, and a reasonably priced remote controller for my drone.


  • Stampela@startrek.websiteto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldFreeCad in docker
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    4 days ago

    Yes, but your laptop is not liking the software, and now you are running it in a browser too. Unless the service offered by the container is remote control, then it’s not going to be of any help for you. Difference between running a HTML5 game in your browser, or GeForce Now: one runs locally, the other is just a video feed.


  • I don’t have any experience here, but everything seems to point towards the docker being just a way to install it for any machine, for ease of management, not a streaming/remote control situation where the software runs on the server, and you just see/interact with the video output. So probably the slowdown is caused by your laptop liking FreeCad even less once it’s running in your web browser.

    Obviously I can be way off, but this is what it looks to me.





  • So, fun issue those things can have: my Sovol SV07 Plus has one and it works great… or it did until the filament chewed through the plastic and made very awkward channels in and out of it. In itself no big deal, still goes through the sensor, but the issue is that it can be a bit too tight of a fit and get jammed. Like, HARD so you have to try pulling it both ways before it dislodges. It’s not a fun way for a print to fail. My workaround is to use a tiny bit of ptfe tube at the entrance, hot glued there so the filament will go straight. So far it’s been working.


  • Happy cake day!

    I mean, the question was about importing settings, PEEK or PLA wouldn’t make a substantial difference in “there’s a menu a little out of sight this way, you also need to do this and that in Cura” and, given how Cura was the top dog for the last few years, one would think that the new hotness would have a way to easily get people to switch. I don’t know how challenging that is from a technical perspective, but evidently it’s enough to not make it worth it to the developers… anyway I copied the speed settings, saved the profile as “0.18 decent” and since I was there, connected Klipper too. Ready for testing.

    That aside, wanting to find the simple way is different from lack of experience. I think I got that between putting together the aforementioned Ender 3, replacing the board with a SKR 3, and contextually adding a BLTouch, something that required editing and recompiling Marlin ;)












  • I have Zigbee stuff. Here’s what I like about that: they bridge between each other (if they’re powered rather than battery operated) and that extends the range. The range can be great to begin with! They’re not on my network, adding confusion or load on the access points, plus they can’t phone home… all local. Then there’s smart switches, and I’m going to point out that without WiFi they can’t be controlled, but Zigbee? Sure, I can easily power cycle my router and access points with Zigbee smart plugs! In fact I have an automation to do that daily. Finally, if something is WiFi you can’t know in advance if it’s cloud based or not, and regardless of that it’s a potentially unsafe device that is connected to the internet. Low power, but botnets work with numbers rather than power.