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Cake day: August 24th, 2024

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  • At work we use the NexDock for that purpose (for anything that doesn’t have proper Ethernet remote management, at least). It’s relatively convenient that it’s self-powered and self-contained, basically a laptop minus the computer part.

    (Conveniently, I see this is also a new model that replaces the awkward mini-HDMI port with a proper full-size one)

    If you need VGA, you will have to buy an active VGA-to-HDMI dongle. They’re cheap (down to about $10-15 these days) and seem to work just fine.

    Should the preference be to use a laptop you already own, you’ve got a few options. Either an IP KVM like the JetKVM, GL.iNet Comet, NanoKVM, etc, or a USB one such as the Openterface.

    (Note that a couple of those links are pre-orders or otherwise not immediately available, make sure you do your research)

    All of these things are fairly comprehensively reviewed by tech-focused Youtube channels, just gotta pick your favourite form factor.









  • Mine (also Ubuntu, also Intel, but Sony earbuds) also works great.

    Almost the only time in recent memory it hasn’t is when I’d accidentally kicked the cable out of the WiFi access point closest to the couch. My laptop was connected to one at the other end of the house, and it turns out that trying to stream video over 2.4GHz WiFi while listening on (also 2.4GHz) Bluetooth headphones isn’t a match made in heaven.

    Now Windows on the other hand. My work laptop (also Intel Bluetooth adapter) starts out fine after a reboot, but over the course of a week will go from taking 2-3 seconds for the headphones to connect once powered on, to 30-40 seconds. Sometimes the headphones will connect, disconnect, and then connect again before actually making any sound.

    The one thing the two OSes have in common is switching between 2-way voice (HFP) and high-quality music (A2DP) modes is a problem. In Linux it’s fairly reliable, but completely manual. In Windows it’s “automatic”, but frequently gets stuck in the wrong mode, or disconnects entirely when switching.




  • It would be the other way around, if at all.

    “First-surface” mirrors where the reflective layer is on the front of the glass are quite fragile, so wouldn’t typically used for residential applications (you’d remove the reflective coating by cleaning it).

    A regular mirror has the reflective surface on the back of the glass (which is then is further coated with a protective paint), leading to the effect you describe.

    I don’t however know enough to say one way or the other whether a surveillance mirror would becessarily be a first-surface mirror.


  • Yes and no.

    Taking advantage of the very real waterproofing of the phones I have owned (past and present), I will just wash the damn thing off under the kitchen tap if it gets dirty, which I have with one of my previous phones done with a high-pressure restaurant-sink-style spray nozzle (I was making beer, and boiling the wort kicks a lot of sticky crap into the air).

    That phone was fine afterward, and continued to work for several years after.

    Also at a more basic level, it is (at least in theory) an assurance that they actually tested the damn thing, and didn’t just slap a largely meaningless (and as already noted, “bigger number better”) rating on the thing, as is largely the style of our times because consumer protection is dead and regulations are meaningless.

    This is exactly the kind of should be done properly, or just not at all. Test it and rate it for the people who do care, or STFU, put the unqualified but perfectly reasonable label of “water resistant” on it, and the bulk of people who indeed do not care (or will be confused) will be no worse off than they are now.

    Anything else is just annoying.