Its great to hear the tech is progressing. I’ve had terrible experiences with them 10+ years ago. I really wish there was a practical way to try before buying
I got one last year, replaced a shitty old school electric coil one.
Similarly, I was kinda skeptical, but in my mind I reasoned it can’t be possibly worse than the shit electric one I had at the time and I’m not going to pay to have a gas line installed sooo I went with it.
It’s the best fucking stove I’ve ever cooked on in my life. By a LONG shot.
I can watch a pot of water boil
Oil is up to temp faster than you can turn around and grab your meat and seasonings
Almost-magic fast temp adjustments
The best part? You know those black burned on crud spots(that are most prevalent on glass tops) that you have to scrape off? Non existent. Idk if its unique to Samsung, but it’s surface is fucking dead easy to clean, it never got the burned on crap after a year when I’ve had new stoves in the past develop it in a matter of weeks
The easy clean is really due to how the induction coil heats the pan but not the cooktop surface. With the surface only heating indirectly it’s really not possible for stuff to burn on nearly as badly. At least when compared to a conventional radiant electric. The surface just doesn’t get as hot.
I went from induction to a house with a gas cooktop and miss the induction a lot.
Ah gotcha, I wasn’t sure because my surface feels so…weird (it doesn’t feel or look like glass or ceramic) so I wasn’t sure if the “magic” was in that or just the way induction worked
I had a terrible experience with one just last year. Had to replace it. Went back to an electric cooktop with simmerstats just last month. We’re much happier now. Can cook again without all the burning and boiling over.
I know an induction cooktop could be much better but the one we had couldn’t simmer anything: it could only intermittently overheat it. And occasionally it would switch to either full power (very dangerous - it was very powerful) or no power (absolutely ruins a steak when you’re trying to sear it). Technicians came multiple times and concluded ‘there’s nothing wrong’. Fortunately, after almost two years, they agreed to an ‘upgrade’.
I expect commercial induction cooktops are much better than consumer grade but they’re too expensive.
I wouldn’t buy another that I hadn’t tried first. I know one place that has a showroom with everything powered. Not that they would let me actually try cooking anything, but at least one can put a pot of water on and try out the controls.
I think you had the same problem I have with my induction hot plate: The pulse width modulation is too long. When you’re going low and slow having it at full power for a whole second is going to burn/boil things over.
I still love it for searing or boiling big pots of water, and even for making stock.
That was exactly the problem with simmering anything.
Also, only 9 power levels wasn’t enough. It was very powerful (nice when I wanted full power) but the steps in power were too big. For many things the only options were too hot or too cold.
But the fault that made me replace it was an intermittent one: occasionally (about five times in 18 months) it went to full power. This could happen at any power setting. No change in the indicated setting, but the power would come on continuously. Anything other than a pot of water would, in just a few seconds, be burning. Very dangerous! Fortunately, it never happened when I wasn’t standing right there to turn the power off at the wall switch. Being intermittent, technicians couldn’t find/fix the fault. It also occasionally stopped heating for a minute or so at a time, as if there was some thermal lockout even when nothing was unusually hot, but at least that wasn’t dangerous.
That was exactly the problem with simmering anything.
Also, only 9 power levels wasn’t enough. It was very powerful (nice when I wanted full power) but the steps in power were too big. For many things the only options were too hot or too cold.
The old Frigidaire (Eletrolux) induction range I am still using uses .5 steps from “Power Boil” (10) down to 3. From power level 3 down it offers .2 steps, so 3, 2.8, 2.6, etc.
It’s good to know there are some decent productions. That’s what I was expecting. I understand the technology. I know what is possible. It was very frustrating and disappointing. The largest appliance manufacturer in the world is selling poorly designed rubbish. The documentation doesn’t describe essential parameters. If only there were a practical way to distinguish the good from the bad before buying… try before you buy is my advice.
It was Haier. And I see they are no longer the biggest by revenue, but still #3
The problem with simmering is that the cooktop was very powerful (nice when you want to heat something quickly) but it only had two modes: one or off. The power was regulated by turning it on briefly, once every 30 seconds. Even at the lowest possible setting (there were 9 power levels), a pot of water would boil each time the power came on for about 3 seconds. Then it would cool for 27 seconds. Even a pot with a thick base, designed for induction cooktops, and heavy cast-iron pans had this problem.
It would be easy to turn the power on and off more frequently than once every 30 seconds. It wouldn’t be much more difficult to have a mode that delivered less than full power.
A thick iron plate under the pot smoothed the power delivery to the pot, but then it’s not really induction heating of the pot: just a hot plate.
Sounds like a crappy product. I’ve cooked on 2 Whirlpool/KitchenAid induction ranges (they’re the same company) and two cheap brands of countertop induction. All four were able to simmer easily and cycled on much more often and more briefly than you describe. And all were plenty powerful.
I did the most cooking on the KitchenAid and it could melt chocolate in a saucepan without scorching. I could hear it pulsing on probably for 1/2 second every 3-5 seconds. On the next setting hotter it could maintain a simmer in silly small quantities. And it could still boil a big pot of water for pasta in a couple of minutes. Pot handles stay cool and spoons don’t get burnt if you leave them hanging over the side. Loved it. I miss that range.
The only thing I had more trouble with was making caramel. The sides of the pan don’t get as much indirect heat compared with radiant or gas, so it wanted to crystallize at the edges. I had to use a thick tri-ply pan for that and still kept a blowtorch on hand to add a little side-heat.
Pulsing the power every 3 to 5 seconds would be fantastic! One pulse every 30 seconds is not good. But I haven’t yet found a manual or sales person that can tell me the period of the pulse width modulation for any brand/model. Not that I have tried very hard.
Maybe I should try KitchenAid. What you describe sounds wonderful.
Get a decent counter top induction plate. Don’t get a fancy one, because they are all limited to the same power. So get one that has the basic features you might want to try. Also try to get one with a reasonable size heating zone.
Then get a good solid stainless steel or cast iron pan.
It won’t be quite the same power level as a full cook range, but it will show you how the heat can be managed. It will probably be able to boil water faster than gas, but not quite as fast as a modern electric. Try something that requiresgood heat control, like pancakes.
These induction plates are also just generally useful for doing stinky/messy things outside or adding another burner to the kitchen during big holiday or family events.
I’d caution against buying any of them for pans that large, honestly. Manufacturers are not required to match the size of the coil to the ring that indicates the ‘cooking surface’ on the cooktop. I bought the Duxtop one that all the review sites seem to recommend, and while it’s still a capable burner, the actual coil does not extend to the full diameter of cooking surface (it’s a lot closer to the minimum pan diameter, about 4 inches). No pan is actually going to adequately compensate for this, I’ve tested it across several different cookware materials, and multiple different brands of multi-ply stainless steel. You end up needing to treat pans somewhat like a wok, with hot/cold zones and a very clear temperature falloff when not in the center of the pan. I didn’t have issues with warping, but I was also extremely careful when it came to preheating pans that were 10 inches or more.
If you do decide to purchase one, you need to find the size of the actual coil itself. Most manufacturers don’t readily provide this information, taking advantage of the fact that most consumers are unfamiliar with the technology or won’t nitpick about the uneven heating. I hate it, because it can lead to an experience so bad that it turns people off from induction.
With the plug in models that’s about the biggest you’ll find. Full range cook tops will offer larger diameters.
If you’re searing or pan frying, then a 12 in might have some cold spots towards the edge, depends on the quality of the pan. A 10 in or less should be fine as long as the pan is decent quality. For something like deep frying, stewing, boiling, etc the size won’t matter so much.
I’ve used a pretty cheap on (Duxtop or something like that) with a 6-8" heating coil. It worked fine on a well-conducting pan - 12" triple layer stainless-aluminum-stainless (like All-Clad, but a cheap version for restaurant use). It also did great with a 10" carbon steel pan. But I wasn’t doing anything that required maximum heat across the width of the pan. I think that’s a shortcoming for sure.
There are also reports of poor performance with larger cast iron pans, which makes sense - they’re not great heat conductors. So I think in part at least it depends on your cookware and what you’re cooking. Boil/simmer/fry in a larger highly conductive pan will likely be fine. Sear in a larger less-conductive pan maybe not so much.
Its great to hear the tech is progressing. I’ve had terrible experiences with them 10+ years ago. I really wish there was a practical way to try before buying
I got one last year, replaced a shitty old school electric coil one.
Similarly, I was kinda skeptical, but in my mind I reasoned it can’t be possibly worse than the shit electric one I had at the time and I’m not going to pay to have a gas line installed sooo I went with it.
It’s the best fucking stove I’ve ever cooked on in my life. By a LONG shot.
I can watch a pot of water boil
Oil is up to temp faster than you can turn around and grab your meat and seasonings
Almost-magic fast temp adjustments
The best part? You know those black burned on crud spots(that are most prevalent on glass tops) that you have to scrape off? Non existent. Idk if its unique to Samsung, but it’s surface is fucking dead easy to clean, it never got the burned on crap after a year when I’ve had new stoves in the past develop it in a matter of weeks
The easy clean is really due to how the induction coil heats the pan but not the cooktop surface. With the surface only heating indirectly it’s really not possible for stuff to burn on nearly as badly. At least when compared to a conventional radiant electric. The surface just doesn’t get as hot.
I went from induction to a house with a gas cooktop and miss the induction a lot.
Ah gotcha, I wasn’t sure because my surface feels so…weird (it doesn’t feel or look like glass or ceramic) so I wasn’t sure if the “magic” was in that or just the way induction worked
I actually got a silicone cover for my induction stove, that can handle cooking temps, and it means the surface stays pristine.
Full agree though, never want another coil/glasstop stove, induction is the way to go.
I had a terrible experience with one just last year. Had to replace it. Went back to an electric cooktop with simmerstats just last month. We’re much happier now. Can cook again without all the burning and boiling over.
I know an induction cooktop could be much better but the one we had couldn’t simmer anything: it could only intermittently overheat it. And occasionally it would switch to either full power (very dangerous - it was very powerful) or no power (absolutely ruins a steak when you’re trying to sear it). Technicians came multiple times and concluded ‘there’s nothing wrong’. Fortunately, after almost two years, they agreed to an ‘upgrade’.
I expect commercial induction cooktops are much better than consumer grade but they’re too expensive.
I wouldn’t buy another that I hadn’t tried first. I know one place that has a showroom with everything powered. Not that they would let me actually try cooking anything, but at least one can put a pot of water on and try out the controls.
I think you had the same problem I have with my induction hot plate: The pulse width modulation is too long. When you’re going low and slow having it at full power for a whole second is going to burn/boil things over.
I still love it for searing or boiling big pots of water, and even for making stock.
That was exactly the problem with simmering anything.
Also, only 9 power levels wasn’t enough. It was very powerful (nice when I wanted full power) but the steps in power were too big. For many things the only options were too hot or too cold.
But the fault that made me replace it was an intermittent one: occasionally (about five times in 18 months) it went to full power. This could happen at any power setting. No change in the indicated setting, but the power would come on continuously. Anything other than a pot of water would, in just a few seconds, be burning. Very dangerous! Fortunately, it never happened when I wasn’t standing right there to turn the power off at the wall switch. Being intermittent, technicians couldn’t find/fix the fault. It also occasionally stopped heating for a minute or so at a time, as if there was some thermal lockout even when nothing was unusually hot, but at least that wasn’t dangerous.
The old Frigidaire (Eletrolux) induction range I am still using uses .5 steps from “Power Boil” (10) down to 3. From power level 3 down it offers .2 steps, so 3, 2.8, 2.6, etc.
I haven’t had any trouble simmering with it.
That would solve one of my major problems with induction stoves.
Now to just have my house wired for it and to be able to afford one.
This is a far worse experience than I have had with a consumer induction cooktop. Im able to simmer, low-temperature frying, and the likes just fine
It’s good to know there are some decent productions. That’s what I was expecting. I understand the technology. I know what is possible. It was very frustrating and disappointing. The largest appliance manufacturer in the world is selling poorly designed rubbish. The documentation doesn’t describe essential parameters. If only there were a practical way to distinguish the good from the bad before buying… try before you buy is my advice.
Which brand was this? On mine, which is a Samsung (so if any brand was going to poorly design it, it’d be them lmao) I have had no issues simmering
It was Haier. And I see they are no longer the biggest by revenue, but still #3
The problem with simmering is that the cooktop was very powerful (nice when you want to heat something quickly) but it only had two modes: one or off. The power was regulated by turning it on briefly, once every 30 seconds. Even at the lowest possible setting (there were 9 power levels), a pot of water would boil each time the power came on for about 3 seconds. Then it would cool for 27 seconds. Even a pot with a thick base, designed for induction cooktops, and heavy cast-iron pans had this problem.
It would be easy to turn the power on and off more frequently than once every 30 seconds. It wouldn’t be much more difficult to have a mode that delivered less than full power.
A thick iron plate under the pot smoothed the power delivery to the pot, but then it’s not really induction heating of the pot: just a hot plate.
Sounds like a crappy product. I’ve cooked on 2 Whirlpool/KitchenAid induction ranges (they’re the same company) and two cheap brands of countertop induction. All four were able to simmer easily and cycled on much more often and more briefly than you describe. And all were plenty powerful.
I did the most cooking on the KitchenAid and it could melt chocolate in a saucepan without scorching. I could hear it pulsing on probably for 1/2 second every 3-5 seconds. On the next setting hotter it could maintain a simmer in silly small quantities. And it could still boil a big pot of water for pasta in a couple of minutes. Pot handles stay cool and spoons don’t get burnt if you leave them hanging over the side. Loved it. I miss that range.
The only thing I had more trouble with was making caramel. The sides of the pan don’t get as much indirect heat compared with radiant or gas, so it wanted to crystallize at the edges. I had to use a thick tri-ply pan for that and still kept a blowtorch on hand to add a little side-heat.
Pulsing the power every 3 to 5 seconds would be fantastic! One pulse every 30 seconds is not good. But I haven’t yet found a manual or sales person that can tell me the period of the pulse width modulation for any brand/model. Not that I have tried very hard.
Maybe I should try KitchenAid. What you describe sounds wonderful.
Get a decent counter top induction plate. Don’t get a fancy one, because they are all limited to the same power. So get one that has the basic features you might want to try. Also try to get one with a reasonable size heating zone.
Then get a good solid stainless steel or cast iron pan.
It won’t be quite the same power level as a full cook range, but it will show you how the heat can be managed. It will probably be able to boil water faster than gas, but not quite as fast as a modern electric. Try something that requiresgood heat control, like pancakes.
These induction plates are also just generally useful for doing stinky/messy things outside or adding another burner to the kitchen during big holiday or family events.
Pancakes, steaks and simmering anything were my biggest frustrations.
Any recommendations? All the countertop ones I’ve seen online max out at 8 inch diameter cooktop, and almost all my skillets are 12 inch
I’d caution against buying any of them for pans that large, honestly. Manufacturers are not required to match the size of the coil to the ring that indicates the ‘cooking surface’ on the cooktop. I bought the Duxtop one that all the review sites seem to recommend, and while it’s still a capable burner, the actual coil does not extend to the full diameter of cooking surface (it’s a lot closer to the minimum pan diameter, about 4 inches). No pan is actually going to adequately compensate for this, I’ve tested it across several different cookware materials, and multiple different brands of multi-ply stainless steel. You end up needing to treat pans somewhat like a wok, with hot/cold zones and a very clear temperature falloff when not in the center of the pan. I didn’t have issues with warping, but I was also extremely careful when it came to preheating pans that were 10 inches or more.
If you do decide to purchase one, you need to find the size of the actual coil itself. Most manufacturers don’t readily provide this information, taking advantage of the fact that most consumers are unfamiliar with the technology or won’t nitpick about the uneven heating. I hate it, because it can lead to an experience so bad that it turns people off from induction.
With the plug in models that’s about the biggest you’ll find. Full range cook tops will offer larger diameters.
If you’re searing or pan frying, then a 12 in might have some cold spots towards the edge, depends on the quality of the pan. A 10 in or less should be fine as long as the pan is decent quality. For something like deep frying, stewing, boiling, etc the size won’t matter so much.
I’ve used a pretty cheap on (Duxtop or something like that) with a 6-8" heating coil. It worked fine on a well-conducting pan - 12" triple layer stainless-aluminum-stainless (like All-Clad, but a cheap version for restaurant use). It also did great with a 10" carbon steel pan. But I wasn’t doing anything that required maximum heat across the width of the pan. I think that’s a shortcoming for sure.
There are also reports of poor performance with larger cast iron pans, which makes sense - they’re not great heat conductors. So I think in part at least it depends on your cookware and what you’re cooking. Boil/simmer/fry in a larger highly conductive pan will likely be fine. Sear in a larger less-conductive pan maybe not so much.
Fuck yes! They already have the appliances set up in kitchens in the stores, let me cook a meal and figure out wether I like it or not!